Varanasi's 80-odd ghats line nearly seven kilometres of the Ganga's western bank, and while you can walk stretches of it, a boat ride reveals a completely different rhythm to the city — one best watched from the water at sunrise or sunset.
Assi Ghat is where the Subah-e-Banaras morning ritual takes place — Vedic chants, classical music and yoga performed as the sun comes up. It's calmer and more intimate than the evening ceremony downstream.
Dashashwamedh Ghat is the city's most iconic stretch, home to the nightly Ganga Aarti — best watched from a boat positioned a short distance from the main platform.
Namo Ghat, one of the newer, more spacious ghats, is worth a slow pass for its scale and modern design — a nice contrast to the older, denser ghats nearby.
Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats, the city's cremation ghats, are usually viewed respectfully from the boat rather than on foot — your boatman will explain their significance as you pass.
Finally, the stretch near Malviya Bridge offers some of the best golden-hour photography in the city, especially as the boats gather for the evening Aarti crossing.
